Frequently Asked Questions

At HomeGuide's national range of $4 to $10 per square foot installed, 1,000 square feet comes to about $4,000 to $10,000 for epoxy. Polyaspartic runs $5 to $12 per square foot on HomeGuide, or about $5,000 to $12,000. Heavy prep, crack repair and decorative finishes move the total, so we give a written price after we see the slab.

HomeAdvisor lists an average epoxy floor at $2,526, with most projects between $1,650 and $3,494. HomeGuide puts a two-car garage at about $1,600 to $5,800. Laredo jobs vary with the size of the floor, the system and how much repair the concrete needs.

Using HomeGuide's ranges, 1,200 square feet would cost about $4,800 to $12,000 in epoxy or $6,000 to $14,400 in polyaspartic. Large floors like that are often shops, warehouses or open living areas, and the prep and traffic level change the price. Your on-site estimate sets the number.

HomeGuide says solid epoxy lasts about 10 to 20 years, while water-based epoxy may need recoating every 3 to 5 years. Polyaspartic is rated at 10 to 20 years or more for homes. In Laredo, sun exposure and how well the slab was prepared have the biggest effect on how long a floor looks good.

Yes, with planning. HomeGuide lists 60°F to 85°F as the application range for epoxy, so in summer we work early in the day, keep material out of the sun and check slab temperature before mixing. For some jobs a polyaspartic system, which HomeGuide lists with a much wider temperature range, is the better fit.

That is usually hot tire pickup. Thin paints and water-based kits rolled onto etched concrete can soften under hot tires and lift. A ground slab, a thicker base coat and a hard topcoat hold up much better. The failed coating has to be removed before a new system goes on.

Yes. Outdoor slabs need a UV-stable finish and texture for bare feet and wet shoes, so we use polyaspartic topcoats, flake systems or textured coatings outdoors. Plain epoxy without a UV-stable topcoat is a poor choice in full Laredo sun.

HomeGuide's national range for a two-car garage is about $1,600 to $5,800 in epoxy and $2,000 to $6,900 in polyaspartic. Removing an old coating, repairing cracks and choosing a full flake finish push the total up. We give you a written price after seeing the garage.

HomeGuide says to wait 2 to 7 days before driving on epoxy, and 24 to 48 hours for polyaspartic. Heat speeds curing and cool weather slows it. We give you a specific time for your floor.

Standard epoxy can amber in sunlight, and HomeGuide rates its UV resistance as poor to fair. That is why we finish Laredo garages with a UV-stable topcoat.

A smooth, glossy finish can be slick when wet. Flake floors have built-in texture, and we can add an anti-slip aggregate to the topcoat on solid-color floors.

Only if it is fully bonded. If it is peeling anywhere, it has to be ground off. If it is sound, we grind it to give the new coats something to bond to.

The bond comes from the prep and the base coat, which are the same for both. Flake adds some thickness and texture and hides dirt better. Solid color looks more uniform and shows marks sooner.

They are less slick than smooth solid coatings because the chips leave texture under the topcoat. For patios or floors that get wet often, we keep the topcoat thinner or add an anti-slip aggregate.

Most garage flake floors take one or two days, depending on repairs and the topcoat. Cure time before parking depends on the products and the temperature.

Yes, on a covered or open patio, as long as the topcoat is UV stable. A standard epoxy topcoat in full sun can yellow, so we do not use one outdoors.

Each does a different job. Polyaspartic resists UV and cures fast; epoxy builds thickness and bonds well as a base. Many Laredo floors use both: epoxy underneath and polyaspartic on top.

HomeGuide lists polyaspartic at $5 to $12 per square foot and epoxy at $4 to $10. For a two-car garage, that is about $2,000 to $6,900 compared with $1,600 to $5,800.

HomeGuide says about 24 to 48 hours for vehicles. The exact time depends on the product and the temperature, and we give you a time for your floor.

Yes. It is one of the few floor coatings suited to full sun because it is UV stable. Outdoors we add texture so it is not slick when wet.

It can be used in a garage, especially a display or lounge garage. In a working garage with tools and jacks, it shows scratches more than a flake floor, so we usually suggest flake there.

You choose the colors and the general style of movement. The exact pattern forms as the pigment flows, so every floor is one of a kind.

Epoxy can amber in direct sunlight. For any metallic floor that sees daylight, we use a UV-stable topcoat, and we do not recommend metallic for open outdoor slabs.

Bob Vila lists metallic epoxy at about $5 to $12 per square foot, and HomeGuide puts standard installed epoxy at $4 to $10. Metallic takes more labor, so expect a higher price than a standard floor. We quote after seeing the space.

Epoxy-based systems are used on pool decks, but plain epoxy in full sun can yellow and chalk. We use UV-stable polyaspartic topcoats and textured finishes outside so the deck keeps its color and grip.

Color matters most. Light colors stay cooler than dark ones, and HomeGuide notes that cool-deck coatings help lower surface temperature. We show you samples in the sun before you choose.

HomeGuide puts an epoxy patio of 200 to 400 square feet at about $800 to $4,000. Pool deck coatings run about $4 to $10 per square foot for epoxy and $4 to $6 for cool-deck style coatings. We quote after seeing the slab.

Small cracks under about 1/4 inch can be filled and coated. Wider or moving cracks often point to a base problem, and a coating will not stop them from coming back. We tell you which kind you have.

HomeAdvisor lists commercial and industrial 100% solids coatings at $12 or more per square foot, and high-traffic upgrades add 20% to 30%. Joint repair, oil removal and phased scheduling change the total. We give a written scope and price after a site visit.

Often, yes. We can work in sections, at night or on weekends, and use fast-cure topcoats so each area goes back into use sooner.

A properly bonded 100% solids system is made for forklift traffic. The weak points are usually joints and cracks, which is why we repair them before coating.

Usually. Oil has to be removed or sealed before coating, which can mean degreasing, deeper grinding and a special primer. We test stained areas before we quote.